The rest of the story . . .

In my last post, I wrote about our hasty exit out of Vietnam. There were a few interesting details that I was uncomfortable telling until we were fully clear of that country. This post gives those exciting details.

We returned from Halong Bay to Hanoi on Sunday afternoon, March 8, and checked into the Metropole Hanoi, a beautiful hotel that had been serving guests since 1901. We stayed on the 7^th floor of the new building. This was the concierge floor which even had its own check-in desk. While checking in we were reminded several times that the services provided included a butler and if we needed anything all we had to do was pick up the phone and dial 4. Noted.

Monday morning, March 9, arrived and we were sleeping in a bit. Since the tour was not scheduled to start until Monday evening, we had planned to strike out on our own and see some of Hanoi that was not scheduled on the tour. As we were getting up and preparing for the day, Denise suggested that I go to the concierge lounge and get us coffee and a croissant. I dressed and headed there.

What I found as I approached the lounge was no food and no people which seemed a bit strange. I walked back to the room and, as instructed, picked up the phone and dialed 4. It rang and rang and rang and there was no answer. I waited about 5 minutes and tried again. Same result. The Butler was missing in action.

At that point I decided to go downstairs to the front desk and see what was going on. As I approached the lounge and elevators, there was a man standing there in a suit and tie (and mask) and with a hotel name tag, obviously a hotel employee. As I reached him, he said, “May I help you?” I replied that I was looking for breakfast which I thought was supposed to be set up in the lounge.

He said, “Today, we are only serving breakfast in the restaurant downstairs.” That seemed a little unusual but things like that happen in hotels from time to time. As I started to turn to head back to the room he said, with an ominous edge in the tone of his voice, “Excuse me, do you have a moment. I need to speak to you.”

I faced him and replied, with quiet concern, “Certainly.” He then said, “At 5:30 am, the Government of Vietnam closed this hotel and has quarantined everyone in it until March 20. On March 3 a guest checked into the hotel and checked out on March 5. He was subsequently diagnosed with Covid-19 and, as a result of the government’s contact tracing, it was discovered that he had been in the hotel.”

He went on to explain that, initially, the government wanted the hotel to keep us in our rooms but, after some negotiations, relented to allow guests to move about the hotel and grounds. We later found out that at the initial closure, the government had surrounded the hotel with metal barriers and placed armed guards at the doors. The barriers and guards were eventually removed but chains and padlocks were placed on all the doors. (Yikes!)

When I returned to our room, Denise said that my face was white as a sheet. I relayed the news and we both just sat in silence contemplating the loss of our tour. It was scheduled to continue until March 24, but with his quarantine, that would not be happening. I called our friends Betsy and Bert and relayed what I had learned. They were shocked as well.

After a short time, we regrouped and decided to go downstairs to the restaurant for breakfast. There we learned that all the restaurants and bars in the hotel were closing and from that point on we would have to rely on room service.

When we returned to the 7^th floor, there was a woman and man in the lounge. The woman was working on her laptop and was taking calls on her phone. Since we were sort of all in this together, we introduced ourselves. It turns out that she was a World Health Organization doctor in Vietnam working on Covid-19. The man was her boyfriend who had flown in from London and had gotten a room at this hotel for the two of them. Now she was quarantined with all of us.

She swiftly moved into physician mode, asking us our ages and basic medical information. She indicated that she was securing thermometers for all of us and asked if we would please take our temperatures twice a day and report the results to her. She also told us that she knew the person that ran the Vietnam testing lab should we need that. She asked about our medications and promised to get extra supplies for us.

After completing the survey of the four of us, she turned to me and said, “You know, you are the most at risk.” (Double yikes!) She also explained that there were some negotiations going on to try and get the quarantine reduced or lifted. It would be several hours before any news of that work would be available.

We then met with our Tauck tour director to discuss the impact of this quarantine on the tour. Steve indicated that should we be released from the hotel, he was prepared to move forward with the tour. He said that all the venues we were scheduled to visit were open and all of the guides and subcontractors were ready to go.

The four of us decided to go back downstairs and sit by the pool. It was then that we all acknowledged, if we had to be quarantined somewhere, this hotel was a very nice place to be.

At lunchtime we returned to the 7^th floor lounge and ordered room service. While we were eating, a hotel employee came to us that told us that the government had reopened the hotel and that any guests that had checked in after March 5 were free to leave. Since we had checked in on March 8, we were free to go.

While pondering our decision, Denise turned to the Doctor and, while pointing to me, asked, “If he were your Dad, what would you tell him to do?” Without a moment’s hesitation, she replied, “I’d tell him to get the first flight out of here and go home.”

That statement was enough for me. In talking with Steve, I also mentioned to him that the only thing under my control at the moment was to pack my suitcase, go to the airport and fly home. We had decided to leave. I called Delta Airlines and made arrangements to fly back. We would have to connect through Tokyo, then Los Angeles.

Although four of us planned to leave, Steve chose to go ahead with the opening night dinner. There were nine of us left from the original group of 14 so it was an intimate dinner. As it turned out, during dinner Steve received a call from the Tauck headquarters telling him that the company had cancelled the trip.

Bert and Betsy were able to fly out that night, but our flight would not leave until Tuesday afternoon. This turned out to be a good thing because during dinner, Denise developed a very bad case of food poisoning. She was extremely sick all night just managing to sip a little bit of ginger ale so she wouldn’t become dehydrated.

We made it to the airport and joined our ANA flight to Tokyo. The plane was not very full at all. It was a six-hour flight and arrived at Tokyo’s Haneda airport around 10:30 pm Tuesday. Since our flight to Los Angles was not until late Wednesday afternoon, we booked a room in a hotel located in the airport.

It took all of Denise’s stamina to make it through customs and immigration. Fortunately, no one stopped us or even looked at us closely. When we got to the hotel room, Denise laid down on the bed, fully clothed, and went right to sleep.

I went in search of some kind of fluids for her, since I was still concerned about possible dehydration. The only thing available in the hotel were two vending machines. One was full of Japanese beer, so that was a no. The other perhaps had some possibilities but I realized that the machines only took Japanese coins of which I had none. Luckily, there was a vending machine in the hotel lobby that dispensed Japanese yen coins.

Armed with $5 worth of coins I returned to the drink machines and searched. Almost all of the bottles were covered in Japanese writing which was no help. Then I saw one bottle that included the English words Vitamin B and Vitamin C. Score! I bought two of them and it turns out that my patient thought they were quite tasty.

We made our flight Wednesday afternoon and settled in for an overnight to Los Angeles. We arrived at around 11 am but the only problem was that our flight to Atlanta was at Noon. Thank goodness for Global Entry. Customs and immigration was a snap. When we reached the counter where we were supposed to turn our luggage back in, that lady looked at our boarding passes and said, “You can probably make your flight but you will need to take your luggage over to Terminal 3 yourself.

I grabbed the luggage and Denise dragged herself out to the street. Fortunately, at LAX, Terminal 3 is just to the right of the International Terminal. We got there, dropped the luggage, and then tried to find the gate amidst all the construction. When we finally saw it, the Gate Agent was standing near the boarding door scanning the room. I waived to her and yelled, “We’re coming.” We stepped on the plane and they closed the door.

After one more uneventful flight, we reached Atlanta, whistled up an Uber and by about 8:30 pm we were finally home.

We spent eight days traveling, literally flying around the world, for what turned out to be a long weekend trip to Halong Bay.

Traveling is just full of adventures.

Around the World In Eight Days

Hello, loyal blog readers. When last we communicated, the Grants of Norcross were sailing around Halong Bay, Vietnam.

Well, today, we greet you from Norcross. Yes, we are back home. How did that happen, you say? I shall tell the tale.

We completed our pre-tour trip to Halong Bay on Sunday, March 8, and we returned to Hanoi that afternoon. Our tour was scheduled to begin on Monday, March 9. We were staying at the lovely Metropole Hotel which has a fascinating and distinguished history having served guests since 1901. It is beautiful.

On Monday we met with our Tauck Tour director only to learn that, due to some additional cancellations, there were only 9 guests preparing for the tour, down from 14. In addition, there were rumblings that some Asian governments were beginning to impose arbitrary closings and other measures to help contain the COVID-19 virus. Concerning.

In what had to be the ultimate stroke of luck, an American physician with the World Health Organization was staying in our hotel and we had the opportunity to discuss our options with her. The Lady who has the innate ability to go for the jugular and ask just the right question, turned to Dr. WHO, and, while pointing to me said, “If this were your Dad, what advice would you give him?” The doctor replied without any hesitation, saying, “I’d tell him to take the first flight home.”

Enough said. We relayed that information to our Tour Director and informed him that we were leaving. As it turned out, the tour company, a few hours later, decided to cancel the tour.

We put a mighty strain on Delta’s reservation system and finally found a routing to get us home. We left Hanoi Tuesday afternoon and flew to Tokyo where we spent the night. Wednesday afternoon we flew out of Tokyo to Los Angeles arriving there mid-morning Wednesday. We caught a noon flight to Atlanta and arrived home late Wednesday evening.

Wednesday was a weird long day since we crossed into Thursday while in the air on Tokyo time, but jumped back to Wednesday after flying over the international date line.

In any case here’s the review: Tuesday, March 2, we left Atlanta. Flew to Minneapolis, then to Paris, then to Hanoi. On Tuesday, March 10, it was Hanoi to Tokyo then on to Los Angeles and eventually Atlanta. Since we only flew east, that meant we flew around the world -- in eight days.

It was not the trip we expected but it is a story to tell the grandkids. Another story for me to tell! Yes! Just imagine the eyerolls emanating from my family. Tough. I have a story and I’m going to tell it.

Thanks to all who have followed this short adventure. The Lady and I will surely be plotting a new adventure as soon as COVID -19 is subdued. In the interim, take care of yourselves and let us hear from you.

Random postscript notes:

Dr. WHO advised that the Lady who wheezes with asthma was a candidate to head home immediately. I only outranked her in level of concern because I’m old. Ouch, that stings.

ANA Airlines is delightful and very detailed oriented. I managed to leave my headphones and iPad on the plane when we landed in Tokyo. The flight attendant staff found them and tracked me down at baggage claim to return them to me. Color me grateful.

Although away for only 8 days, we managed to make a new friend, Mary, from Calgary, Canada. Travel is so enriching.

Once home, the Lady who keeps the pantry stocked, sent me off to Publix and Ingels to stock up for the coming apocalypse. See photo below. I couldn’t resist.

There’s Always a Plan B, C & D

Tour companies have a tough job. Just think about it. They deal daily with an entitled group of mostly opinionated customers.  Like today.

I mentioned before how COVID-19 had depleted the number of people on this Halong Bay cruise. The group became even smaller when those who had booked a one night cruise left the boat. The sum total of those remaining was . . . 7.

On the agenda for today was swimming in a small cave, kayaking outside the cave plus visiting a floating village. Added to the confusion was the fact that we were supposed to transfer to a ‘day boat’ which would take us to those activities. Due to some un-described technical difficulties, the day boat did not show. In its place was a smaller cruise boat which was to be our transport for the day.

So, seven hardy souls boarded the tender for the short trip to the substitute day boat. Once on board, the guide for the day asked for a show of hands: how many want to kayak . . . no hands raised; how many want to swim . . . no hands raised. Color the guide stumped. What to do with these people for a whole day? Well . . . there’s another, much bigger, cave to visit and there is always the floating village. Oh, and there must be lunch.

Combine those opportunities with the fact that the captain can sail slowly, very slowly, and you have an extremely relaxing day. Sounds boring? Not so much.

The day was saved, in part, by the spectacular views afforded us as we floated through the many islands in the Bay. There are 1969 islands, limestone formations thrusting out of the water in amazing shapes and many sizes.

The cave we visited has been the subject of significant study and it has been determined that humans lived there over 10,000 years ago. The place was a bit of a mess, but what will your place look like in 10,000 years?

Early 21st Century Cave Dwellers

Speaking of homes. After lunch, we visited one of only a handful of floating villages that remain in existence.  This floating village rested in a cove completely surrounded by limestone outcroppings. Our guide said that this protected the floating homes even from typhoons.

The villagers surround their floating homes with fish raising pens. They also have boats that are used at night to fish for squid. The boats are rigged with bars of lights that are used to lure the squid to the surface.  Even now, this way of life is going away. Most of the families send their children to the mainland to live with relatives so they can go to school. And much like small towns everyone, once the children leave, they rarely return. It was fascinating to observe this ancient way of life.

Floating Homes Taxi

One Floating Homes Neighborhood

This is a Squid Fishing Boat

While visiting the Floating Village, our tour guide, Blue, took us into the one-room schoolhouse and gave us our first lesson on the Vietnamese language. Much more work is required.

The Lady & Betsy were very attentive in class

The Lady even rocks a life vest. Amazing.

So, today was a tour company’s nightmare. Plan A went out the window. Plans B & C failed to launch. But Plan D was conceived, and worked to provide and interesting and relaxing day.

Travel works best for the flexible.

Bonus Post from Halong Bay - Technical Issues

Good morning from Halong Bay. I discovered that people that signed up for email notifications are not receiving same. I made a technical adjustment last evening and am sending this post to see if that helped. If you received an email notification for this post, would you please add a comment and let me know that. Thanks.

Do You Know the Way to Halong Bay

The Lady who wants to go everywhere had learned that one of the most interesting places to visit in Vietnam is Halong Bay. Since that was not included in our tour itinerary, she booked us on a two-night, three-day cruise. The Bay is a two hour drive from Hanoi so we ordered a van for the trip.

The tour company did a little up-sell since there would be four of us and all our luggage. They suggested that we forgo the 8-passenger van for a 15 passenger luxury  van. Turns out, we had the rad party van complete with cushioned leather seats, strobe lights on the ceiling and a simulated disco ball. Neat! So we rolled into Halong Bay in style.

Thanks to COVID-19, there were only about 20 people who showed up for the cruise which would normally accommodate about 70 people. We have about 4 staff members for each of us and the boat is lovely. Many activities were planned for us.

First up was a magnificent cave, Hang Sung Sot. At approximately 75 feet above sea level, this cave occupies more than 100,000 square feet in two enormous caverns. We were advised that the trip would involve 700 steps. I suppose technically that would mean 350 up and 350 down but it felt like 600 up and 100 down. In any case, it was a sight to behold and unless you have any illusions about commerce in a communist country, when we reached the pinnacle of cave, we were greeted with, you guessed it, a souvenir shop.

With just a quick break back at the ship, we were ushered off to the pearl farm. It was there we learned that cultured pearls are created by irritating the hell out of a poor oyster. 30% of the time, the irritation results in the creation of a lovely pearl. 70% of the time, not so much. Many opportunities were provided to purchase the product of this irritation but the Lady who rarely meets jewelry she can say no to, said no. Oh, happy pocketbook.

Tomorrow will bring further opportunities including hiking, kayaking and swimming. Remember, there is little relaxing on these trips. Wish me luck.

Beam Me Up, Please!!

Oh, Captain Kirk, where is my transporter? Having spent the better part of three days to get from Norcross, GA to Hanoi, Vietnam, I’m ready to be beamed up.

We left home at 7 am on Tuesday, March 3 and we arrived at our hotel in Hanoi on Thursday, March 5, at about 7 am, and no, we did not cross the international date line so it was all real time. Our trip was lengthened due to Delta cancelling flights in and out of Seoul, South Korea. Thank you COVID. For that reason, we had to fly from Atlanta to Minneapolis to Paris to Hanoi with significant layovers in the intermediate cities.

From Minneapolis to Paris, the Lady, who has come to covet Business Class, enjoyed Delta’s new Delta One service. She had her own ‘suite’ which even had a little door she could close to keep me from bothering her. I had to behave. 

Now I don’t want this blog to be COVID-19 all the time but I think you may be interested in what we have observed as we traversed half the globe.

First and foremost, people are quite absent. Airports were nearly empty and that annoying announcement of “Today’s flight is completely full,” was mostly missing in action. You want to snag a better seat. Well, my friend, you are in luck.

We are also seeing a lot of face masks outside the U.S. On our Vietnam Airlines flight from Paris to Hanoi, all the flight attendants wore masks. As a veteran of a few surgeries, I kept expecting to see someone bring out the IV tray. Which one of you is the anesthetist? Of the 32 Business Class seats on that flight, only 8 were occupied.

Around lunchtime today, we were reunited with our delightful travel friends, Betsy and Bert, who arrived from Los Angeles. This is our 6^th trip together. Betsy commented that we have been traveling so long together that I could probably begin to retell all my stories since she has forgotten the early ones. SCORE!

This is my second trip to Hanoi. I visited on business in 1997. As luck would have it, this time we are staying near the Opera House which is the area I visited back then. Tonight, we found the hotel where I stayed and had dinner in their restaurant.

I found it, 23 years later!

No report from Hanoi would be complete without a line or two about traffic. These people supersize traffic. Hanoi has around 8 million residents but there are 5 million motorbikes. You do the math. I learned this evening that people on motorbikes basically ignore traffic lights. A red light means keep going just watch for people and vehicles and try to avoid them. The basic rule for pedestrians is once you start walking across the street, for God’s sake, don’t stop. Move steadily and with purpose. These motorbike drivers are quite good at near misses.  

Early tomorrow we head out for a three day, two-night cruise on Halong Bay. With all the emptiness we’ve encountered so far, the four of us may have the ship to ourselves. Tune in tomorrow to hear the exciting continuation of Where’s Tran, and Phan, Tuan and Waldo, etc.

Grants on the Move

Well, it’s that time again. The refrigerator is nearly empty, the suitcases are out and open and the last-minute frenzy of buying supposedly necessary items has been completed.

If you have followed this blog in the past, you may recall me waxing eloquent about the Lady who accompanies me on these trips and her desire that the fridge be empty and perishable items be consumed before we head out the door. My challenge this year was a loaf of raisin bread. What possessed me to buy it last weekend, I don’t recall. But by Tuesday, I realized that I might be in trouble. The Lady, you see, is not a bread eater. So, you can see my predicament. It was all on me.

You will notice by the photo below, I managed to finish the loaf. Whew. I had visions of having to pack some of it and eat it on the plane. Crisis averted but please don’t offer me any raisin bread for a while.

We are headed to the far east: Vietnam, Cambodia, & Thailand, Covid-19 notwithstanding. Our research tells us that with good hand-washing and keeping our hands away from our faces, we are as safe there as we would be here.

Our only concern at this point is the possibility of having trouble getting home on March 24, if the U.S. airlines continue to curtail flights. Well, as intrepid and experienced travelers, we will deal with that when it becomes a reality. Head-in-the-sand, you say? Precisely.

I look forward to sharing this adventure with you, but I must remined you in the strongest terms, I need your comments to keep me motivated. The Lady who is the Chief Nagger each evening can only do so much. She often reminds me that my readers are expectantly standing by for each and every posting. Color me skeptical unless I see a comment or two from real readers. The incentive to lay my head on the pillow and forget about you is usually quite strong. You have been warned.

We fly out of Atlanta tomorrow, Tuesday, and arrive in Hanoi on Thursday, with stopovers in Minneapolis and Paris. I think we lose a day or something like that as we travel. This international date line thing always confuses me. In any case, I’m thinking my next post will be Thursday or Friday.

See you then.

Will it all fit?